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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred names. However, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that figure.

A Ethos of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.